Saturday, March 31, 2018

Roses...


"It is the time you have wasted for your rose that makes your rose so important."
Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, The Little Prince

"But he who dares not grasp the thorn
Should never crave the rose."

Anne Brontë


Only some years ago I was sure about not loving roses in perfumes. I had tested some, some dusty and with retro vibe that seemed to scream "old!!!" and I snobbed all the rest of them. It's just a shame how foolish I was! Thanksfully I learned with time that rose is one of the most versatile notes ever and it became one of my most loved ones. 
I don't want to complicate thing with explaining differences between different rose species that may be used, as often this information lucks and it doesn't help me when it's stated as "Rose" in perfume's pyramide. Though, mostly used  are Damask rose descendant from Gallic rose coltivated in Arabic countries and Bulgaria;  Mai rose or Rosa centifolia coltivated in the France, Morocco; Tea rose, Taif Rose - a variety of damask rose and others. Besides of the specie of rose used, the responsability of the mood fragrance carries lays on other notes. And the result may vary from fresh to dark, from gofic to tender or gourmand and girly or green and woody or sensual and sexy. Rose may have as may faces as woman has and maybe that's the reason why it's a symbol of womanity and I can swear there is a rose for everyone, definitely not only for women, but also for men.
I love to classify things, so I classified some rose perfumes I like by the way I detect them. PS! I named also some widely loved fragrances that I personally don't like a lot, they are in "(...)". It's a personal classification and obiously may vary from person to person, but here we go... and I named my top 8 as well:

Photo by web
FRESH ,CITRUSSY or GREEN:
Tea Rose by Perfumer's Workshop
L'Ombre Danse l'Eau by Diptyque,
Chloè by Chloè,
L'eau de Chloè (discontinued) ,
Stella by Stella McCartney,
Marni by Marni,
Roses Musk Montale,
Rosissimo by Les Parfums de Rosine

SWEET, JAMMY and GIRLY
(With vanilla, cacao, sweet fruits...):
Brulur de Roses PG13 by Pierre Guillaume,
Rose Praline Les Parfums de Rosine,
Rose Vermeille by Tauer,
Miss Charming JHAG,
(Midnight Rose and La Nuit Tresor by Lancome),
Roses Vanille by Mancera,
Cafè Rose by Tom Ford

SOUR: - (Isparta PG),
Eau de Protection Rossy de Palma by Etat Libre d'Orange,
(Rose Velours VC&A)

POWDERY/RETRO' (with add of violet, heliotrope, vanilla, iris, aldehydes, geranium..):
Ombre Rose L'Original by Brosseau
Drole de Rose by L'Artisan Parfumeur
Mona di Orio Rose Etoile de Hollande,
Oud Satin Mood MFK,
(Nahema Guerlain),
Photo by web
Paris YSL,
Rose Essentiel Bvlgari,
Trèsor by Lancome,
Calypso Piguet,
Lipstick  Rose by Frederic Malle

ORIENTAL: (mostly with add of different resins)-
Lyric Woman by Amouage,
Epic Woman by Amouage,
Aramis Calligraphy Rose by Aramis,
(Rose Chypree Tauer),
Attar Montale

DARK (with add of incense, myrrhe, other
resins, spices, patchouli, woods):
Portrait of a Lady by Frederc Malle,
Rouge Avignon Phaedon
Mon Nom Est Rouge by Madja Bekkali,
Perles de Lalique,
Agent Provocateur - actually the most agressive of all roses I know

SIMPLY BEAUTIFUL
Shanti Shanti by Miller et Bertaux
Une Rose by Frederic Malle, 
Un  Fille de Berlin Serge Lutens, 
Sa Majeste la Rose SL, 
Mohur Neela Vermiere, 
Rose Perfection Piguet, 
Rose Silence by Miller Harris,
 Rose of No Man's Land by Byredo

EARTHY (mostly combined with patchouli or oud):
Voleur de Roses L'Artisan Parfumeur,
Noir de Noir by Tom Ford
Coupe de Grâce by Herve Gambs,
Rosamunda Laboratorio Olfattivo,
Vengeance Extreme JHAG,
Lady Vengeance,
Lumière Pour Pemme MFK,
Gris Montaigne Dior,
(Gold Rose Oudh Tiziana Terenzi),
(Rose Anonyme Atelier Cologne),
Rose Oud by Monotheme
Rose Oud by Kilian, (Rose d'Arabie Armani),
(Rose de Taif Perris)

ANIMALIC (with dirty musk, castoreum ecc.):
Oudh Infini by Parfums Dusita - the best ever
Mad Madam JHAG,
Musk Villoresi,
Mon Parfum Paloma Picasso,
Eau de Soir by Sisley

MY MOST LOVED ROSES:
Shanti Shanti by Miller et Bertaux
Un Fille de Berlin by Serge Lutens
Rouge Avignon by Phaedon
Lyric W byAmouage
Epic W by Amouage
Coupe de Grâce by Herve Gambs
Noir de Noir by Tom Ford
Oud Satin Mood MFK

THE CHEAPEST:
Tea Rose Perfumer's Workshop
Rose Oud Monotheme
Ombre Rose L'Original
Rose by Paul Smith

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL, but $$$ NEEDED:
Lyric W Amouage
Une Rose Frederic Malle
Coupe de Grâce Herve Gambs
Oud Satin Mood MFK


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